25.05.2026
When I was twenty, I took a bike, train, train, ferry, ferry, train, bus, train
To get to an island that my dad lived on, alone, when I was three.
Nobody lives on the island anymore. Population 0. When I visited, it was just me and the caretakers. They mowed lawns and unlocked the church and lighthouse for me. It feels and felt like a secret. And my dad. Did he really live there? Could he have?
The island is the size of 100 of my bedrooms, and about as tall as one, too, except for the lighthouse. It felt like it, too, except for the two concrete bunkers.
My dad lived in a stone cottage. One night he heard someone closing his kitchen cabinets but never saw who. When I visited I opened them all back up for him. While he was there, there was one couple who lived permanently on the Island year-round. They cooked him fish and promised him that they were not the ones closing his kitchen cupboards. They died a year before I visited the island. that is why they have to ferry in and mow the lawn once a month. I guess I should say it is not much of a ferry: it is a cabin for the captain/lawn mower, and a bench on deck for you.
You can walk the perimeter of the island in about 30 minutes; it is miniscule. I completed my sandy lap an half hour before the ferry left back for Fredrikshavn. After a day spent on Hirsholm, it was now indeed a family secret. I found two tall stones on the north beach and left buried treasure under them for future visiting posterity. If you are visiting ever, the treasure is at 57°29'11.3"N 10°37'29.6”E. Please re-bury it and leave it for my kids.
I grew up eating breakfast next to photographic prints of rocks and dirt of this island. My older sister in fact still gets to eat her breakfast next to them. They are, in fact, not good photographs.
I took my sweet time getting back to the ferry. They blew the horn at me. But I very well might never be back. There is something majorly magic about this island. It can go to sleep for weeks or seasons at a time. And it is only really known by its caretaker, and the tiny group of people who were privileged enough to have lived on it for a small time. My phone ran out of battery when the ferry arrived back into Fredrikshavn’s docks.
I wandered. It was my mom’s birthday, but I couldn’t call her. I kept walking north along the coast. I took a right-hand turn, under train tracks, and I found myself in amazing saltwater marshes while the sun was setting. The clear sky made mirrors of the tiny puddles in the grass. And the sun made each tip of blade of grass orange. Therese are my favorite colors. Now I wandered, crossing a half-moon bridge made of industrial pre-cast steel. I sat under a grassy dune on the lip of the beach and read my novel while the setting sun made the sky rosy over our island on the horizon. My phone being dead I took no photos. All I have is a pristine memory of the sight. You know those sights that you will never forget; the mental image shutter click. And I have the sketch in my pocket notebook. It is on the last page of the notebook that I had for that season of life. A finale, and a conclusion to a chapter. Perhaps feeling like a question was put to rest, although I don’t know what the question was. What I do know now? I love my dad. I love my family’s stories. I love that drawing. I love that island and the ferry captain. I love the rare seabirds that call the island grasses home. I love the heterochromatic eyes of the two dogs who found me sleeping under the sand bluff. I love that I never saw where they came from or where they went. I love that day, and how it could have been a dream. It wouldn’t matter if it only was- a real dream is just as valid.








